Raggedy Dolls

By Amanda Novaes

Raggedy dolls, or any handmade toy, are a special way to show love and affection to our little ones. Each stitch represents a strong bond and sometimes stories will come about with this toy. Then, a few smiles will be the result of whoever touches it and bring good memories to our minds.

SUPPLIES:

SURFACE:

Wood surface 7.5inx 11.5in (20cmx30cm)

PAINTS:

Decoart® Americana

Admiral Blue DA213

Antique Gold DAO9

Antique White DAO58

Asphaltum DA180

Black Plum DA172

Burnt Umber DAO64

Charcoal Grey DAO88

Fiery Red DHS4

Flesh Tone DA078

Heritage Brick DA219

Honey Brown DA163

Light Buttermilk DA164

Melon DA251

Mississippi Mud DA094

Pebble DA303

Russet – DA080 **

Shading Flesh DA137

Soft Black DA155

Traditional Burnt Umber - DA221

**Retired: Cadmium Orange DA014 Dioxazine Purple DA101 Antique Maroon DA160 1.1.2 ratio

MEDIUMS:

DecoArt® Americana acrylic sealer/finishers

BRUSHES:

Robert Simmons

3/8, 1/4 Angle Sienna

Loew-Cornell®

4, 2, Round LaCorneille

18/0 Script Liner or 2 Ultra Round LaCorneille

3/8, 1/4 Crescent

1/2, 3/8 Maxine’s Mop

6 Shader LaCorneille

Royal and Langnickel® 1/4 Filbert Rake

MISCELLANEOUS SUPPLIES:

Sandpaper

Tracing paper

Graphite paper

Masking tape

Sponge

TIP:

The sponge is a perfect tool to add multiple textures on your surface, quick and easy, using the wet on wet or dry technique.

PREPARATION:

Sand the wood surface and base coat with Asphaltum.

PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS:

Background: Using a wet sponge with vertical motion, add 2 or 3 layers (drying between layers) of Mississippi Mud then repeat with Pebble. Let dry and trace the doll and the wood strips. Distribute the strips according to the size of your wood surface. Use the masking tape to help with the shading of the right side of each strip. Dry brush with Asphaltum, then Burnt Umber. Repeat this dry brush shading around the doll, focusing on the right side.

Face and Arms: The base coat is Flesh Tone. The first shade color is Flesh tone + Shading Flesh. Then shade with Shading flesh. To make it look a little older or dirty fabric, let's add a glazing layer with Asphaltum on the skin. For the overlapping shadow, use the Asphaltum then Soft Black. With a liner brush add some stitches on the arms with Asphaltum.

Eyes: Trace the eyes and dry brush with Asphaltum, then base coat with Titanium White and Lamp Black. Shade the black ball with White, then Admiral Blue. With a liner brush, contour the eyes with the Lamp Black. For the nose, mouth, and eyebrows, use Heritage Brick.

Hair: Using a 2-round brush with Heritage Brick, start to add the woolen yarn hair. Focusing on the top yarns add the second color Melon. The third color is Melon + Fiery Red. Repeat the last step. Now, the shading is to make these top yarns pop up, so shade with Russet, then Black Plum on the yarns behind. With a lines brush and Russet, add some divisions on each yarn, then shade one side with Russet, and the other side with Fiery Red. Shade under the tie and on the hair that is behind the head with Russet then Black Plum. Shade the face, if you add some yarns in front of it, with previous face colors.

Hair tie and waist ribbon: The base coat is Heritage Brick. For the ribbon, shade on the bottom with Russet, then Black Plum. Dry brush on the top with Melon. The tie’s stripes are Antique White. Shade with Russet, then Black Plum.

Hook: Base coat is Honey Brown. Shade the right side and overlap shadows with Charcoal Grey, then Soft Black. For the highlight, use Antique Gold and Light Buttermilk. For the screw, base coat Charcoal Grey and shade with Soft Black and highlight with Light Buttermilk. For the cast shadow on the background, use Soft Black. With the hook done, add the hair knot, using the same hair colors.

Shoes: The base coat is Burnt Umber. Shade with Lamp Black and highlight with Antique White.

Dress: The base coat is Antique White. With a rake brush, add some weft of the fabric by crossing the strokes in two different directions and drying it after each layer. The first layer of weft is Antique White + Asphaltum. Then, repeat with Light Buttermilk. These steps will give a soft texture to the dress. Now, shade all the pleats. With a crescent brush, shade one side of each pleat with Asphaltum, then Burnt Umber. Let dry. Use an angle brush to shade with the same colors. With all pleats done, shade under and above the ribbon and collar with Asphaltum and Burnt Umber. For the crinkle on the sleeves use an angle brush. Load as usual, but just touch on the surface. Do it on both sides of the crinkle, first with Asphaltum, then with Light Buttermilk. With a liner brush, highlight the edge of the skirt with Light Buttermilk.

Tag: The base coat is Antique White. Shade all edges with Light Buttermilk. For the raffia string, the first color is Cocoa, then Light Buttermilk. For the overlapping shadow on the arm, use Asphaltum and Burnt Umber. For the cast shadow on the background, use Soft Black. Do not forget to shade inside the hole of the tag and the string that is behind it.

Buttons: Trace the buttons and dry brush the area with Asphaltum, then Burnt Umber. The base coat is Honey Brown. Shade the dark section with Charcoal Grey, then Soft Black. Highlight with Antique Gold, then Light Buttermilk. Add two dots with Lamp Black and with a liner brush, add the stitch line with Light Buttermilk. Contour all buttons with Antique Gold + a touch of Charcoal Grey. The cast shadow on the right is Soft Black.

FINISHING:

Just add a layer of Varnish Spray.

DOWNLOAD ORIGINAL WORD FILE HERE

DOWNLOAD LINE DRAWING HERE

For INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO - Use the QR Code below.or CLICK HERE.

Pattern, photos, design & video ©2021-22 Amanda Novaes